MissDissent (missdissent) wrote,
MissDissent
missdissent

Review - Dragoncello




Chef Roy McVeigh marches to the sound of his own beat – and to be honest, it’s refreshing in a culinary world seemingly dominated by cronuts, overfilled doughnut milkshakes, and meals served on anything but plates.



In an unpretentious upstairs room, enlivened by vibrant Tapestry Girl pegboard murals, he defies expectations over and over again – though perhaps the Sydney Rock Oyster, Burnt Leek, Potato Skins and Citrus Leaf Gel ($3/each) might benefit from more staff explanation.


The neighbouring table was “freaked out” by not being presented with a visible bivalve, despite tasty tater skins dipped in oyster crème.



Beetroot, Boudin Noir, Crackling and Apple ($18)
utilises sweetness to well-balanced effect, rather than simply working to elicit a Pavlovian response from our sugar-trained palates.


Against The Story Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier ($50), the dish sings. This versatile (and underrated) wine blend travels well into my dish of the night: Pea Mousse ($28) set under a tangle of its own leaves and flowers, with candied bacon and poured-at-the-table Parmesan broth.



While vegetarians are gifted with their own page of options, my carnivorous dining companion tucked into well-rendered (36-hour) Lamb Neck ($34) with hay cream, mushroom sauce and native mint.



Geranium Panna Cotta ($17)
deftly juggles intense floral sweetness with tomato soup cake and two forms of rhubarb. Nope, haven’t seen that before.



Dragoncello
Level 1, 466 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8399 0907


Click to add a blog post for Dragoncello on Zomato
Tags: food, wine
Subscribe

Recent Posts from This Journal

  • Food News - Fancy A Quickie?

    This week Porkstar launched another of their slightly risqué campaigns designed to get you thinking about a mid-week pork (meal) at a…

  • Review - Bibimbar

    With the addition of a few bright menu boards depicting colourful Korean soul food, like the wartime hangover favourite, Korean army stew,…

  • Review - My Lua

    My Lua occupies an interstitial space between towering office blocks. The all-day café is owned by Candice Anh Nguyet who immigrated…

  • Post a new comment

    Error

    Anonymous comments are disabled in this journal

    default userpic

    Your reply will be screened

    Your IP address will be recorded 

  • 0 comments