If there’s a better BBQ Beef Short Rib ($44) in Sydney, I don’t know where to find it. Luke Powell coats his fat, juicy ribs in little more than salt and pepper, and sticks 'em into the wood-fire smoker for nigh on sixteen hours. Yep, they go in at 11pm and come out just in time for dinner the next evening.
They're charred, smoky and delicious, and if by chance you can’t finish, they’ll happily wrap up the remains in foil, and pop them in a brown paper bag for you to slice up as the best damn cold meat ever to grace a bread roll. Eat it somewhere nobody can judge you for gnawing on the bone.
And while this is definitely American BBQ, the lack of obvious Americana - well except the (must-have) Mashed Potato and Gravy ($12) – means it also speaks to Europeans. Smoked Sausage ($14) and generous slabs of silky Chicken Liver Pate ($16) go flying out.
Sides like Kale, Chickpeas and Anchovy Caramel ($14) serve the same purpose as Porteno's famous crisp Brussels sprouts with vincotto – cutting the fat.
The row of convivial share tables suggests beer hall, and The Grifter Pale Ale ($8) makes an admirable companion drink, though the wine list and Smoked Manhattan ($39/2 people) both warrant careful consideration.
LP’s Quality Meats
Suite 1, 12-16 Chippen Street, Chippendale
Ph: (02) 8399 0929