Every time I swear off sliders, one comes along that changes my mind. This time it’s the Vada Pav ($6.90) at this surprising new Indian joint, which has set up shop in University Hall.
The gently spiced potato patty is encased inside a buttery, soft bun, with brilliantly red ‘spicy gunpowder’ added to taste (go hard, it’s delicious).
Performing a wordless dance in the postage stamp sized kitchen, husband and wife team, Rajoo and Shaloo Gurram, turn out dishes that celebrate West Coast Indian cuisine from the Mumbai region.
The couple’s inspiration are the khau gallis, or ‘food lanes’, mostly concentrated around railway stations in Mumbai. So expect to find classic travelling dishes like Railway Goat Curry ($18.90). You’ll also see Persian influences coming across the Arabian Sea, in Iranian Kheema Pav ($7.90). It’s another buttery bun affair, this time with a tasty bowl of lean, hand-pounded lamb mince.
It goes down nicely with a Kingfisher Lager ($7) in your other hand.
A seamless Konkani Prawn Curry ($18.90) with gently cooked crustaceans, is a ring-in from Southern neighbour, Goa.
It could do with more heat, so either ask for it, or throw in a Chilli Pickle ($3.00). You definitely need a Cheese and Spinach Naan ($4.80) cooked with fenugreek in the tandoor. It’s served in a metal cone in angular slices, a hint at their only step away from authenticity – modernised plating.
On the floor, daughter Manasi Gurram explains their other modern choice: to miniaturise vegetable sides like Pumpkin Masala ($7.90) and vibrant green bean Poriyal ($7.90). Couples in particular should appreciate this sterling idea because a balanced Indian meal suddenly becomes both affordable, and manageable without waste.
Bombay Street Kitchen
University Hall, Corner of Glebe Point Road and Parramatta Road, Glebe
Ph: (02) 9660 3726