With upmarket noodle soups all the rage, I hit up Salaryman for their Pork & Pippie Ramen ($15/$18).
To be honest I wandered into this semi-industrial space expecting something a little more informal – maybe a hard drinking house pitched directly at Sydney’s cubicle slaves.
Instead I found neon lights, dripping wall-art, exposed copper pipes masking sprayed concrete ceilings, and comfortable Scando-styled chairs.
As for my ramen, the defining flavour of this broth was fat, over the more usual pork bones, which meant my accompanying CRFT K1 Vineyard Gewurztraminer ($53) grew on me, after a somewhat shaky start. Pork chashu was tender and generously applied; house-made wheat noodles were slippery with good bite; and the scattered char-grilled pipis were perfectly cooked.
Across the menu seafood is the standout, as you’d probably expect from Head Chef Stephen Seckold’s extensive time in the Flying Fish kitchen.
Blow-torched Honey Bug Meat ($15/2) served nigiri style on crisp sheets of nori were creamy and delicious, particularly matched to an elegant Amanato Junmai Gingo ($17/100ml).
Glazed Toothfish ($25) is teaming with flavour against a tangle of water spinach.
Pea Tartlets ($20/2) filled with lightly smoked crème frache and garnished with a dab of caviar – felt a bit out of place, but do provide a welcome carb. for those of us who like to spend their weekday evenings double parked with craft beer or Agave Ginger Cider ($12).
Small portions, teamed with floor staff that dispense scant advice on how many dishes from each menu section to order, mean you might want to throw in the sukiyaki-inspired Rolled Wagyu Sirloin ($27) dripping with golden egg yolk. The dense protein hit should round out any corners.
52 Albion Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9188 2985