MissDissent (missdissent) wrote,
MissDissent
missdissent

Review - Hem Nine Nine




Hem means laneway in Vietnamese; and the motif is employed here to make a positive out of a narrow, corridor-like space on Glebe Point Road.



Hem Nine Nine
represents a logical next-step for mother and son duo, Xiao Linh Meng and Peter Wu, who have been operating the Mama Linh’s food trucks.



With crispy chicken banh mi popular on the street, I thought the Hum Gua Bao ($7/each) here would be a safe bet. Sadly the slightly sticky, steamed mantou buns stuffed with crisp skinned chicken, pickled cucumber and baby radish, were largely flavourless, but they did function as fast stomach insulation with my hand wrapped around a beer.



Stone & Wood Green Coast Lager ($8.50) and Dad & Dave’s Pale Ale ($8.50) are the standouts on the short (but impressively crafty) list, edging out a pedestrian selection of wines (and no BYO).



There’s more flavour to be found in the Tiger Prawn, Pork Belly and Green Mango Salad ($16), though it tumbled awkwardly off the platter each time we tried to serve it.



Bo Luc Lac ($13/4) - presented here as beef skewers with onions and capsicum - lacked the expected balance of salty, sweet, sour and umami that can make this dish a thing of beauty.



A traditional Caramelised Pork Belly ($16) was tarted up with a runny six-minute egg, working best against Vegetarian Fried Rice ($12).



The real attraction here is Mama’s 18-hour pho master stock, presented in the Hem Special Pho ($17).



It’s a visually pleasing bowl of rice noodles, layered with a generous amount of thin, rare, 9+ marble score wagyu beef slices, and an oven-roasted marrow bone. You’re meant to scoop the marrow out into the soup, making the already beautiful broth richer and creamier, with the torched bone adding an intriguing note of char.

As an Inner West resident, I was hoping Hem Nine Nine might make my Vietnamese craving not mean schlepping over to Marrickville, but the wider menu didn’t match my Bau Truong's benchmark. The pho, however, is a another story…

Hem Nine Nine
99 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Ph: (02) 9571 8887

Hem Nine Nine Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato
Tags: food
Subscribe

Recent Posts from This Journal

  • Review - Aperitivo

    Aperitivo has been my local pizza joint for more than a decade. It’s a large restaurant with two levels of indoor dining plus outdoor…

  • Review - Osteria di Russo & Russo

    It’s hard to know where to draw the dining out line with the challenges posed by Covid-19, especially in the absence of strong leadership…

  • Review - Kobe Wagyu BBQ Restaurant

    Booths are good social distancing, right? Well that’s the way I’ve always used them. Throw in an online ordering system, and you…

  • Post a new comment

    Error

    Anonymous comments are disabled in this journal

    default userpic

    Your reply will be screened

    Your IP address will be recorded 

  • 0 comments