After taking a bit more time off than usual over the Xmas break, Vine Double Bay has reemerged on the back lanes of Double Bay looking refreshed and reenergised.
Executive Chef Drew Bolton has trotted out a new menu to suit the updated leafy, French provincial surrounds. He’s calling it Provence meets Tuscany; I’m inclined to just call it honest, tasty food.
With the succinct menu arranged into snacks, salads, small and large plates, sides and desserts, Vine Double Bay an easy place to choose your own adventure. Lots of natural light makes the back part of this venue a lovely place to kick back and neck a glass of wine.
With a lick of residual sugar sweetness, the 2012 Ravenna Riesling ($15/glass) from Columbia Valley, Washington USA is a soft, round Sunday afternoon wine.
It suits the Terrine du Jour ($14) – venison on the night I dined – presented with triangles of brioche, cornichons and pear chutney. Sit on this dish a little longer by throwing in a bucket of Baguette ($3) pieces with salted butter and a savoury 2015 Marius Peyol Rosé ($13/glass) from the Côtes de Provence.
For a light meal for one, it would be hard to beat the Charred Cos Salad ($22) with glass of the 2015 Flametree Margaret River Chardonnay ($14/glass). Butter, oak and driving acid make this wine a good companion to this super-tasty salad, that teams spiced chicken, quail egg and charred cos lettuce with lashings of compelling anchoiade (a sauce made from pureed anchovies, garlic and olive oil).
For something a bit more decadent, the Raclette Agnolotti ($22) is drizzled with a truffled egg yolk sauce, the intensity offset by grilled spears of asparagus. It’s let down by a cold plate, but we like the dish so much we mop up the cold sauce with our remaining baguette anyway.
The Beef Tri Tip ($29) is equally well handled. The tender slices of beef have oodles of flavour, and suit the charred aroma and blackberry jam notes of the 2012 Bodegas Valderiz Roble Tempranillo ($15/glass) from Spain. This dish is a little on the small side, so if you have a hearty appetite, consider rounding out the accompanying caramelised fennel with some fries.
The food at Vine Double Bay tastes far better than my images would have you believe; it's delightful to see a menu that's more about flavour than presentation in this post-Instagram age.
Vine Double Bay
2 Short Street, Double Bay
Ph: (02) 9363 0010