You’ve heard of the Eton mess, Eiju Fusion Japanese Dining are currently putting out a dessert I’ve dubbed the Tokyo mess as part of their under-priced Vivid Sydney menu. Inspired by the colourful light display in nearby Darling Harbour, chef Hideki Okazaki has created five colourful riffs on his already interesting menu.
There’s just one week remaining where you can pop in for this Vivid Sydney Set Menu ($59/person) on your way to see the lights.
Kick off with a warming cup of Kikumasamune Kojo Junmai Daiginjo ($8/60ml) that’s round and mellow, balancing an acetone-like start with a more yeasty, round finish – a bargain at the price.
It’ll suit the menu’s opening course – Okazaki-san’s popular scallop carpaccio turned green using artistic brush stroke of Yuzukoshō spinach puree, green herbs, jalapenos and a dusting of kale powder.
Karaage soft shell crab is impeccably battered, the crisp exterior exploding in your mouth with juicy moist crustacean.
It’s turned red for Vivid Sydney with beetroot arancini (which are also impeccably crumbed) and enough pickles, purees, powders and gels to deliver you more bang for your buck than sixty buck menus usually provide.
Lurid yellow saffron foam-topped teacups hide spaghetti with a light seafood ragù. It’s good, but I liked Eiju’s regular menu item - mentaiko spaghetti - flavoured with spicy cod roe much better because it feels more Japanese.
The beautifully plated duck breast celebrates the colour purple using a tangle of naturally occurring purple vegetables – cabbage, heirloom carrots and spuds. The red cabbage puree is earthy and intriguing, while the sautéed version under our duck keeps some bite. The split baby carrots are tender, while the purple potato crisps shatter against tender, juicy duck breast slices.
With portions kept on the moderate side across the first four courses, I approached my rainbow dessert with great relish. This Tokyo mess is centred around a seasonally-appropriate persimmon nube (cloud). It’s surrounded by a wreath of flavours and textures running from coconut granita, to fresh raspberries and blackberries, to clear kirsch jelly, meringue shards and cubes of raspberry mousse. Best thing I put in my mouth was the sugar-crusted melon skin jube – but the whole dish was fun to eat.
Eiju make great-tasting fusion cuisine without losing sight of being Japanese.
NOTE: You can see a previous review of the regular menu back HERE.
Eiju Fusion Japanese Dining
196 Harris Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (02) 8590 3433