I visited Masuya Suisan before I went to Masuya Japanese Seafood Restaurant. While it bears the same name and logo as the popular Japanese small restaurant group, Masuya Suisan Wentworth Point has a separate Korean owner and a Korean head chef who spent time in Masuya's main kitchen before taking on this role.
Sitting under the same electric blue neon as the super-popular Haymarket store, Masuya Suisan is priced in the more affordable, everyday restaurant tier.
The brightly coloured menu offers up a wide variety of dishes, all photographed so you know what you’re getting. We kick off with Sashimi Deluxe ($34.80) which presents six different fishes, scallops and Pacific oysters on ice. The oysters are well handled, with dressings that complement rather than dominate their mildly salty flavour. The fish selection includes the usual suspects – tuna, salmon and kingfish – plus fattier salmon belly and hapuka, though it’s the raw scallops sitting on thin slices of radish that win me.
We enjoy the raw seafood collection with a junmai daiginjo sake called Aonomu Yaegaki ($29/250ml) that is crisp and clean, with a whisker of acetone. The bar will also make you mocktails if you’d prefer to brighten up your evening with something Hurricane Blue ($8) or Lychee Rose ($8). They’re both a bit sweet for my palate, but it’s hard to not to smile with child-like pleasure when they arrive tall and icy with striped straws, fresh fruit and leaf garnishes. I did however prefer drinking the Japanese pale ale, Orion ($9.80), with my hot dishes.
If I was dining here by myself, the Sushi Deluxe ($39.80) would be my go-to dinner, with its long, nicely draped fishes sitting over well-structured sushi rice. The platter includes two personal favourites – uni, or sea urchin roe, and sweet scampi – plus a lovely piece of barbequed eel.
Deep red tuna nigiri sushi is another standout from this dish, though you can get it more cheaply on the five-piece Sushi Entrée ($10.80).
This version would be a perfect precursor to a whole meal hot dish like the Seafood Yaki Udon ($17.80). This dish tangles thick, slippery udon noodles with a chaotic collection of seafood, vegetables and pickles, neatly taking care of all your dietary requirements on the one plate.
You’ll find some whacky invention in the Assorted Tempura ($13.80) that includes crab sticks and tangles of sweet onions in a batter that’s a bit too thick for my personal taste.
Nanban Chicken ($11.80) is a Kyusyu region take on the popular karaage chicken. It’s soaked in malt rice vinegar then teamed with sweet onions for a sweet and sour taste, with creamy tartare sauce. I’m not sure it’s quite my thing.
I’m more of a Japanese simplicity snob, so my favourite hot dish is the Barramundi Saikyo Miso Yaki ($16.80) presented with fresh lime and pretty white brush of daikon radish that’s been lightly pickled. The fish has sweetness and umami, and flakes when gently prodded.
Sadly, the same high cooking standard didn’t apply to my Wagyu Rump Steak ($36). The lack of heat in the wooden platter doesn’t do the meat any favours either - it's dry and hard to enjoy.
While this restaurant is new and yet to attract enough people to justify staying open as late as the centre it is housed in, it’s still a mistake to rush diners to allow staff to go home early.
Level 1, Marina Square, 5 Footbridge Boulevard, Wentworth Point
Ph: (02) 9648 1071